Zeeb Pet Health Center
13020 US 27
Dewitt, MI 48820
Map
517-669-2641
Mission Statement
The Doctors and Staff of Zeeb Pet Health Center are dedicated to providing the best possible care for pets and service to our clients. We use progressive methods, procedures and technologies while showing compassion and respect to both owners and pets. Our goal is to educate pet owners in total pet wellness. In the process of delivering excellent professional service, quality products and valuable information to our clients, Zeeb Pet Health Center will provide an environment of challenge, personal growth and camaraderie for the hospital's team members. In the accomplishment of our mission, a fair return to the hospital and its team members will be realized.
Please read some interesting pet health & tips articles
by Dr. Stephen R. Thimmig D.V.M. –
Veterinarian - Owner -
Anal Glands – “Anal Gland Rupture”
Cat in your Bed – “Just let me Sleep”
Your Pet’s Diet – “Get a Smaller Bowl”
Grooming – “Frugality can be Costly!”
Heartworms – “Indoor Only Cats Aren't Safe!”
Fleas – “Hot and Humid Means Fleas Galore!”
Puppies and Kittens - “Get a Load of that Puppy Breath”
Tapeworms – “Good Buddies Share”
Interns – “They Got Their Start at Zeeb Pet Health Center!”
Veterinarians MUST use "Politically Correct" terms!
Try
saying this five times fast "Somebody's cat ate their doll's, toy cat's,
toy". And what was the result? The toy cat's toy caused a GI tract
obstruction!
Here
goes. Kiwi was presented for severe dehydration, not eating for the past few
days and was reluctant to play. I completed a Comprehensive Physical
Examination that, aside from the dehydration, revealed nothing significant.
Next I ran a CBC and a Chemistry Profile. The only abnormal finding was an
elevated liver enzyme. I gave her some fluids under her skin to re-hydrate her
over the next few hours and hospitalized her for observation. We fed her with a
high energy gruel.
Kiwi
started vomiting almost immediately after we began feeding her. The next step
in the diagnostic process was to take an abdominal X-ray. Voila, we had a
diagnosis. Readily apparent on the x-ray was a foreign body obstructing the
outflow from her stomach. It was about the size of a thimble. Our only option
was to surgically remove the object. I know that many of you are wondering what
on earth could this foreign body be? OK, here goes: It was their child's, toy
doll's, toy cat's, toy. Say what? It is actually a ball shaped cloth covered
magnet.
During
surgery, in order to maintain Kiwi's hydration, we started her on a balanced
electrolyte solution given via an IV pump. Geoff prepped her for the procedure.
She was maintained on an inhalation anesthetic and kept warm with a heated
water blanket. Minutes after the incision was made in her abdomen the offending
object was located. I moved it from the first part of the small intestine back
into the stomach. A small incision was made in the wall of the stomach so that
the foreign body could be removed. Why incise the stomach rather than the
intestine? Because the inflammation and scar tissue, that naturally form during
the healing process, are far less likely to cause an obstruction in the stomach
than they are in the narrow lumen of the intestine.
Post
operatively we made certain Kiwi was comfortable with pain relief medications.
She was maintained on IV fluids and the following day, started on Eukanuba
Maximum Calorie canned food. I rechecked her liver enzyme a few days later. It
remained slightly elevated, but was coming down. Some of you may be wondering
about the significance of the elevation. In hindsight, I think that the
location of the obstruction, within the GI tract, was also causing collateral
damage to the liver.
What's
the lesson to be learned? No matter whether it's a cat, dog or young child, if
it can go in their mouth, it will.
"Glands"
are a REAL Pain in the Butt! Why did a
big, otherwise playful, year old Rottweiler lose all interest in his day-to-day
physical activities? Whew! Could that horrific odor be originating from his
tail region? Why won't he eat? The answer was obvious; an anal gland infection
was at the root of the problem. The abscessed gland broke through the skin and
was draining along side his anus.
What
are anal glands? Where are they located? What do they do? These glands are lay
between two muscle layers that surround the anus. Each time a dog or cat has a
B.M. the foul smelling material they produce is forced out tiny ducts at the
5:00 and 7:00 positions on the rim of the anus. No one knows their exact
purpose. Some think the material helps lubricate the anus. Others suspect the
odoriferous pasty fluid marks territory. My take; they're nothing more than a
pain in the butt. Should the duct become blocked, the pet tries to remove the
obstruction by scooting on the carpet and licking their rectal area.
Although
any infection can be life threatening anal gland issues pose a couple of
problems of another sort. Left untreated, the infection may damage the nerves
that go to the anus. Without proper nerve impulse conduction from the rectum
(I'm ready to empty) to the brain (better find an appropriate place to lay this
load) appropriate elimination may not take place. As a result stool may be
dropped wherever. Another possible concern is the formation of scar tissue
causing a stricture. This makes it difficult, if not impossible, for the stool
to exit the rectum. Needles to say, either consequence is not desirable.
What
did I do? The problem needed to be addressed through a variety of remedies. So
as to get a significant dose of a broad-spectrum antibiotic in to the pet's
system ASAP, I gave him an injection. This was followed with the owner being
instructed to administer an oral form of the same antibiotic three times a day
for ten days. Additionally, I wanted to reduce the pain and swelling. Another
injection was given of a medication that would have an immediate effect lasting
nearly two days. This was followed with an oral medication that specifically
treated the symptoms seen with an infection of this type.
Last
but not least, I instruct caregivers to place a warm, moist compress on the
ruptured anal gland site for ten minutes four times a day. This takes a little
time on the owner's part but significantly benefits the patient. Notice, I did
not say at six-hour intervals. Even if there is but an hour separating
applications, the area will heal faster and with less pain if all four
compresses are applied. I admit, it will take a little time (forty minutes to
be exact) but the increased blood flow to the area due to the heat and the
removal of any drainage from the moisture decreases the pain and accelerates
the healing process! The final step in the treatment process is to apply a
small amount of an antibiotic ointment to the site after each warm compress.
I
am happy to report that a call back the following day found the pooch doing
quite well. There was considerably less swelling in the infected area and he
was back to his old self.
Cat in your Bed – “Just let
me Sleep!”
Just
Let Me Sleep! Bandit, our fit as a
fiddle, eleven pound, eight year-old, social butterfly of a kitty, wants
attention 24-7! What's wrong with that? Typically nothing but at 6:00 in the
morning when I'm trying to sleep - everything. Many of you will immediately
identify with the tenacity this feline exudes in an effort to simply get what
he wants in the pre-dawn hours of the morning - BREAKFAST!
What
is his first course of action? Promptly, at six a.m. he paws, nonstop, at his
master's forehead and nose. My response? I simply roll over. I go from laying
on my left side to the same position, this time on my right side. My thought
process (in a sleep-deprived state) was to deny him access to my head. Without
hesitation Bandit circles the pillow and again begins to invade my personal
space. In response, I roll back over to my left side. Now the "pest"
begins to paw at my lips. Finally, I move ever so close to the edge of the bed
that I darn near fall off. So what does the little fur ball do? Places his
paws, one at a time, on the back of my head and starts to slowly but surely
pound on my scalp.
You
may have experienced a similar scenario. Does your furry friend, cat or dog,
occupy, on a nightly basis your space (bed). Under these circumstances isn't it
a good idea to keep them free of fleas? The veterinary prescribed monthly flea
control products make prevention and treatment simple.
Let's
not forget to have your pet undergo an Annual Comprehensive Physical
Examination. This is an excellent way to identify many medical problems before
they become unmanageable.
Does
"Barney" climb the walls when a firecracker explodes? With every
explosion does "Dora" crawl deeper into the closet! Is your furry
friend one of the many who totally freak out when they hear a "BANG"?
In
an effort to save my patients from being terrified during the Fourth of July's
celebratory events, thunderstorms, the opening day of hunting season, and for
some who travel I dispense a vast number of sedatives. The following is a brief
explanation of the pros and cons of using "Ace", Acepromazine, a
tranquilizer to reduce a pet's anxiety.
The
pro - it works for 6-12 hours! The cons - acepromazine potentiates seizures,
must be given at least forty five minutes prior to an event, and it reduces the
recipients ability to maintain their body temperature. Wow! These are some
pretty serious side effects.
Let
me briefly address the cons. First, we do not use this drug if the recipient
has ever had a seizure. It does not cause seizures; rather it lowers the
threshold of brain activity at which a seizure will occur. So for all of you
with epileptic pets, ace is not a drug for your pet!
Second,
It takes about forty-five minutes for the drug to have its full effect. During
the "induction period" the pet MUST not in any way be stimulated i.e.
leave them alone! Ideally you give them a dose then put them in a quiet place
where they will not be disturbed. If you stimulate them, they will override the
medication until the environment is quiet. At this point they will sleep for
hours. We see this commonly when the inexperienced owner gives their pet ace to
help with thunderstorms. It works well if it is given an hour in advance of the
storm. However if medicated once the storm is in the area the pet freaks out
until the storm passes then they sleep like a baby.
Finally,
this medication causes the blood vessels in the legs and paws to slightly
dilate. Consequently the patient loses their ability to maintain their body
temperature. This is the same effect alcohol has on people. This is not a
problem during the warmer months however it can be quite an issue when Ace is
used to minimize the stress of traveling during the winter months.
Bottom
line: Consult your veterinarian. Ask them what can be done to keep your pet
from freaking out during "explosive" celebratory events,
thunderstorms, the opening day of hunting season, or while traveling. They may
have a solution that will put all at ease.
Get a Smaller Bowl –
Controlling your pet’s food intake
Get
a Smaller Bowl! You know how I love my
Beemer! This dainty, 100 plus pound all black, five year old, spayed
I
suggested to Mary that we remedy this problem by giving her less food to eat,
"I don't think so." was Mary's response. We reached a compromise by
doing two things. First, I started Beemer on R/D. This is a prescription food
that is severely restricted in calories (low fat and very high fiber). The idea
here is that she will be able to maintain a fairly large volume to eat yet have
far fewer calories.
Maintaining
the same volume, and reducing her calories wasn't going to be enough. We had to
also decrease the total amount of food she was getting. Well putting 2 cups in
the large food bowl clearly wasn't going to be enough to even cover the bottom
of the bowl. In Mary's mind, as I'm certain it is with many other pet owners,
this was just plain WRONG! But, you see I'm not as dumb as you think. I knew
how to remedy this problem. I proceeded to get Beemer a smaller bowl. Now, it
looked like Beemer was actually getting more to eat! I'll have you know that
this was more for Mary's benefit than it was for Beemer's.
You
see Mary, like many pet owners, feels that there MUST be enough food to at
least cover the bottom of the bowl. If you subscribe to this line of thinking
and your critter is overweight, try feeding R/D and by all means use a smaller
bowl.
Grooming - "Frugality
can be COSTLY!”
For
a good many years I've had the opportunity to see patients, after hours, for
owner inflicted lacerations. You ask, "Owner inflicted", what gives?
In
an effort to save some scratch (pardon the pun) many pet owners are becoming
part time groomers. A bath, brush and nails are fine but PLEASE, as you tell
your children, stay away from sharp objects. Those tight to the skin mats can
be a real problem. Couple this with a bouncy or reluctant to cooperate pet and
you have a recipe for disaster.
This
was the case about a month ago when a bouncy "Golden-doodle" ended up
with a laceration just below his ear. The biggest problem for the owner was how
to stop the bleeding. Any cut on the face tends to be very good at producing an
overabundance of blood.
As
is always the case, he came to the office after-hours having eaten just six
hours earlier. What's the significance? A laceration of this size requires a
surgical repair. I know some of you are thinking this poor dog must be looking
a bit like Frankenstein - NOT. I simply had to cut off the flap of tissue and
close the defect. For you cat owners that say that couldn't happen to my kitty,
I see just as many lacerations caused by owners of felines as I do canines.
For
those of you who want to have your pet groomed, know that the pet stylist is
going to earn every penny you part with. Responsible groomers will want you to
have your pet current on their immunizations. Why? To protect themselves and
the other pets they see at their facility. For cats, diseases like Distemper
and the other upper respiratory complex illnesses are quite contagious. Canines
are prone to a number of infections some through direct contact others are
airborne. They should be current on their Distemper - Parvo complex as well as
Kennel Cough. Both species need to be current for Rabies vaccination.
Go
ahead and ask my wife, she'll tell you that I'm frugal. I try hard to save
wherever I can but, in this case, the frugality practiced by the golden's owner
did not pay. If you insist on going beyond a simple bath and brush and actually
groom your pet please do it Monday - Friday between 8 a.m. and noon. Oh by the
way, do not feed them until you are done with the scissors!
Heartworms – “Indoor ONLY
Cats Aren't Safe!”
Cat
lovers, did you know heartworm disease is NOT restricted to dogs? Heartworms
affect cats differently nonetheless the problems they cause are just as
serious! In the dog, adult worms damage both the heart and lungs. Felines react
to the migrating larva in the lung field. They show symptoms often mistaken for
asthma and respiratory ailments. An acute onset of vomiting is the only symptom
some cats have. Why just vomiting? No one really knows. Bottom line: Don't
worry. Applying a topical heartworm preventive monthly will keep your feline
safe!
If
you think, your kitty is not at risk because it remains indoors, you're WRONG! Researchers
have demonstrated cats that stay indoors are no less susceptible than those who
remain outdoors. A study done in North Carolina showed that nearly one third of
cats diagnosed with heartworm disease were indoor-only cats! Know this, it
takes just one mosquito bite to infect your kitty. Therefore we recommend ALL
cats receive heartworm preventive medication.
Exactly
what happens when a mosquito, caring heartworm larva, bites a cat? Over the
next five months the larvae migrate from the bite site to the victim's lungs.
As larvae enter the lung field the cat's immune system has a severe response.
The blood vessels and tissue in the lungs become congested and very inflamed.
It is at this point that many cats die!
If
a larva should mature into an adult heartworm it may live two years. Upon its
death an intense inflammatory reaction occurs damaging the lungs. It is
extremely rare for heartworms to mate as they do in the dog. If they do mate
the cat's immune system immediately destroys any offspring.
In
dogs we use a simple blood test to diagnose heartworm disease. It's not that
easy in cats. A negative blood test does not exclude heartworm disease. However
a positive test result is significant.
So
what can be done to keep your kitty healthy? As I stated at the onset, the
newer topical monthly heartworm preventive products make it easy. No more
trying to get your cat to eat that delicious chunk of beef. Now all you need do
is apply the contents of a tiny tube to the nap of your cat's neck and viola,
they are protected! In Michigan this should be done through the first of
December. It doesn't get any easier.
As
there are a number of flea preventive products that can be applied topically,
don't be fooled into thinking just because you are using a topical medication
that your kitty is automatically protected from getting heartworm disease. Let
me be clear, there are quite a few topical medications that treat fleas yet
have NO affect on heartworms! Be certain to ask your veterinarian if the
product you use protects your kitty from deadly heartworm disease!
Fleas – “Hot & Humid
Means Fleas Galore!”
If
your pet's been on prescription flea preventive since spring, you can stop
reading now. For the rest of you with itchy pets, or if YOU are being bitten by
fleas read on, relief is on the way!
Here
is some flea biology. Hatching requires temperatures above seventy degrees and
humidity over seventy percent. The past few weeks have met those criteria.
Carbon dioxide and vibration are also a must. Why? Once they hatch within
forty-eight hours they must have a blood meal or they die! Vibration means its
going by and carbon dioxide spells blood.
After
fleas feed they mate and make eggs. How many? Twenty to fifty eggs per day with
a maximum of two thousand! Under optimal conditions they go from egg to
egg-laying adult in just fifteen days!
You
ask: What can be done to stop these blood sucking parasites? As veterinarians,
we have a number of safe and effective products to choose from. The days of
flea collars that only treated the front half of larger pets are long gone.
Monthly products now prevail!
For
cats we use a product killing fleas (before they bite), heartworms, ear mites
and some intestinal worms. You apply a tiny tube of liquid to the nape of the
neck! As our homes rarely go below seventy degrees, flea control may require
year round applications. For heartworms, use it into December. Detergent
shampoos will wash it off. This is generally a mute point as rarely do I find
cat owners giving their furry companions a bath. Above all, this product is
incredibly safe!
Canines
have more options. Hunters or those who are exposed to ticks should be
protected with a topical medication killing; fleas, ticks, flies and
mosquitoes. Note: The tick part of this product kills CATS! Don't get anxious.
Toxicity in cats occurs only through contact while the product is wet (apply in
the evening, it's dry by morning). These dogs will also require heartworm
prevention and may need to be treated for intestinal worms. There is another
topical that includes prevention for fleas, heartworms, intestinal worms, ear
mites but no tick control.
Yet
another option for dogs is a "birth control" pill for fleas. No, you
don't have to get the flea to swallow a pill. It works like this. The dog is
given a chewable tablet containing; heartworm preventive, worm medication and
the flea B.C. stuff (Lufenuron). The Lufenuron goes into their body, is stored
in fat and is slowly released over a month in to their blood stream. As a
result, each time the flea gets a blood meal it gets a dose of Lufenuron that
impairs eggshell formation yet it has no effect on the pet.
See
your veterinarian to determine the best product for your pet and home. Flea
control that made your house a "toxic war zone" is gone.
Puppies and Kittens – “Get a
Load of that Puppy Breath”
Go
ahead ask my Health Care Team: What's better than a whiff of "Puppy
Breath"? Enthusiastically they'll tell you point blank, nothing! As new
puppies arrive daily, our nasal passages are regularly stimulated. We are
completely fulfilled. Putting aside the fact that their breath smells
wonderful, what's so neat about a new furry addition? Clearly, puppies and
kittens bring all of us shear delight and their owners a ton of work!
Let's
start with the potty training. Generally this is not a big deal for kittens.
Simply keep the litter box clean and smelling good and voila they use it.
Here's a good rule of thumb "scoop daily, thoroughly clean weekly".
Might I suggest you provide your feline friend(s) one more litter box than
there are kitties?
When
it comes to potty training, puppies generally present more of a challenge!
Initially, they go when you put them out and they go when you don't. Just when
you think they finally have a clue, you find another "wet spot" or
worse, you step in a "deposit". Unfortunately, some puppies take
longer for it to "click" than others. Would you believe Miss Mary has
brought home a couple of late clickers? When they do finally get the notion,
"go to the door when you need to go out", they have YOU trained.
You
may want to initiate a wonderful training program using a "Piddle
Pad" or the much less expensive human equivalent, "Underpad".
It's quite easy to train a pet to use the pad. And, if you want them to
"Go" outdoors simply move the pad to the desired location. Either
way, the pad should be replaced after each use.
For
your new addition's health and welfare, and to complete the breeder's buy sell
agreement, soon after the purchase they need a Comprehensive Physical
Examination. This should be done BEFORE you take them home. Most kittens and
puppies come with a money back guarantee so long as they are returned within 48
hours. Here's the kicker. Once they have graced your door you're stuck. Not
because the breeder refuses to take them back. Rather you won't be able too
bring yourself to return the little bundle of joy. You may be the exception,
but I have found that most new pet owners find it nearly impossible, no matter
what the physical problem may be, to return the little bundle of joy to the
breeder.
Your
first visit will provide you with an excellent base from which to work. You'll
learn all kinds of things. For example, what immunizations your pet needs, why
they should have a stool checked every six to twelve months, how to prevent
heartworm disease, what constitutes a proper diet, how to control fleas and
ticks, the proper time for the spay or neuter surgery, and basic behavior
information. All of this will help you provide optimal care for your new pet.
With
today's modern medicine, preventive care, and an annual comprehensive physical
examination your buddy will be around for a good long time. Large breed dogs
are living twelve to eighteen years. Smaller breeds and cats frequently see
eighteen to twenty years of good quality life.
Let
me leave you with this. What's better than "puppy breath", and the
purrrrr of a new kitten? My TEAM will quickly tell you, nothing!
Tapeworms – “Good Buddies Share”
Best
friends are great at sharing. What do I mean? The other day a client brought in
one of her two furry feline friends. The kitty she presented was svelte, a fine
representative of her species. She was known to her human friends as
"Hunter". The other kitty, that shared her domicile, was plump to say
the least, and had little interest in doing anything other than laying around
looking "Cute". "What's the problem?", I asked. She
proceeded to tell me that "Cute" had little tiny worms exiting her
rectum. "Not to worry. She has tapeworms", I said. The next thing out
of her mouth was "How on earth could she get tapeworms?"
Please
pay attention; the following is the story of the tapeworm lifecycle. The
segment that is passed in the stool or that crawls out of the rectum (Oh yes,
segments are mobile when they break off from the main worm!) is actually a
uterus full of tapeworm eggs. The intermediate host a flea, mouse or rabbit
eats the eggs from the segment. The eggs hatch into larvae and go through a
mandatory growth stage in the intermediate host. Note: If the pet eats the
segment directly nothing happens. The only way for these worms to be
transmitted is to go through the flea, mouse or rabbit!
So,
tapeworms are transmitted from one critter to another (or back to the same pet)
by the "end host" eating the "intermediate host" i.e. in
this case Hunter brought Cute a mouse to eat that was infected with tapeworm
larva. And Hunter, who did just that - hunted, was not infected because she
never ate her prey.
Not
to worry. Of the common intestinal parasites, tapeworms are the least injurious
to their end host. They cause little damage to the gut but are hideous looking
as they crawl out of the rectum. Tapeworms are at the top of the order when it
comes to worms as they have a "Blood - Brain" barrier. What does this
mean? The traditional over the counter de-wormers have no effect on tapeworms.
It takes a special medication to clear this type of intestinal parasite.
This
medication works very well to remove all adult tapeworms. Once cleared, if the pet
eats another flea, mouse or rabbit harboring the infective stage of the
tapeworms, the pet can begin to shed segments in as few as two weeks!
The
take home message is: If your pet never eats a flea, mouse or rabbit they will
never get tapeworms. On the other hand if they have a steady diet of any one of
the intermediate hosts, sooner or later you will see tapeworm segments.
Interns – “They Got Their
Start at Zeeb Pet Health Center!”
I
am exceedingly proud of the fact that three Health Care Team Members at
Rashelle,
Keith, and Leslie have been working closely with and learning from the doctors,
veterinary technicians, receptionists, veterinary assistants, animal
caretakers, our pet stylist, and interns. They have gained valuable experience
in how to prevent, diagnose, and treat various diseases, behavioral issues, and
nutritional problems affecting companion animals. The pets in our community
have truly benefited from their hard work and dedication.
Leslie
will be leaving us soon after she completes her final exams. Keith and Rashelle
will stay on until classes resume in the fall. At that time, due the rigors of
their curriculum, they will be forced to keep their heads buried in their
books. Likely they will spend some time with us during their breaks. It is at
that point that I look forward to picking their brains for any of the new and
exciting treatments and surgical techniques that will help me better care for
the pets that frequent our office.
Once
again, BRAVO! Rashelle, Keith, and Leslie, you have made this old vet proud to
know you.
Veterinarians MUST use
"Politically Correct" terms!
A
client, accompanied by a physician friend, brought an ill kitty to my office.
"Sophie" had been frequently urinating small amounts everywhere. She
knew her feline friend had a urinary tract infection.
After
I finished a comprehensive physical examination, to confirm the diagnosis, I
recommended a complete urinalysis. I also addressed changes occurring in her
cat's eyes. At this point the ophthalmologist became quite concerned. I told
the owner that the eye changes were consistent with advancing age. I said,
"She has Senile Nuclear Sclerosis or Old Cat Eyes". It was then that
the physician, who specializes in eye diseases, gave me the politically correct
term "Age Related Nuclear Sclerosis". He said when he told his
patients they had "Senile" anything they flat out denied being
"Senile"! You see "Senile" conjures up bad scenarios.
I
have always been selective when choosing the words and terms I use while
speaking with clients. On more than one occasion I have used the "B"
word to describe a female dog. However fitting it may be, I let everyone know
that I am not using this word to describe the owner. The same is true for the
donkeys I saw so many years ago. I would ask my veterinary assistant to setup a
de-wormer for Jack's "A", not Jack the "A".
There
are many "special" words we use in medicine to specify gender,
disease, condition, species, breed, etc. Please understand pets really don't
care if you are "PC". They just want to get well.
For
any of you who know me, you must admit from time to time it's been a challenge
for Dr. "T" to retain his professional demeanor. Bottom line: Your
companion's health is my first concern and "Political Correctness" is
not necessarily a component in the formula for best medicine. "It's tough
to please everyone", is truly an understatement! Let me be clear, I've
never once heard a pet complain that I failed to use politically correct terms.